How to teach your high prey drive dog to come back

Teaching your dog to come back is really about teaching them to choose you over tempting distractions. Which can be pretty difficult with most dogs. But it becomes much harder if your dog has a high prey drive and all they want to do is chase, catch, and sometimes kill, wildlife. As soon as you let your dog off-lead, they’re in hunting mode, eyes darting around or nose to the ground searching for evidence of any animal. And when they find something, they zoom off, completely forgetting you even exist.

Most people dream of being able to let their dog run off-lead. But if you’ve got a high prey drive dog that can feel like a pipe dream. How will they ever be safe off-lead if they’re unable to listen around wildlife? It’s absolutely possible to teach a dog with high prey drive to come back. And it’s not that much different to training recall with any dog. You just need to know what they’re excited about. Luckily with high prey dogs we know exactly what that is…

What is prey drive?

Dogs are predators, so all dogs have some level of prey drive. But how strong that is, what behaviours you’ll see and what animals they’re obsessed with will depend on the dog’s breed. Generally dogs who were bred mainly as companions (like pugs and papillons) and dogs bred to guard livestock (like Maremma sheepdogs) will have the lowest prey drive. And dogs bred for hunting (gundogs, terriers and hounds) and herding (like collies, German shepherds and corgis) usually have a stronger desire to chase, catch and often kill animals. Gundogs are usually most obsessed with birds, especially pheasants, and terriers and hounds love hunting rabbits and squirrels. But all dogs are different and your dog’s individual personality, their experiences and whether they’re from working, pet or show lines will also affect how strong their prey drive is.

Prey drive isn’t one behaviour - it’s a sequence of behaviours which your dog’s ancestors used to catch and kill prey. It starts with either seeing an animal or finding and tracking their scent, then chasing, catching, killing and eating that animal. But dogs don’t usually find every one of these behaviours equally rewarding. Working dogs have been bred for specific jobs and will usually have a stronger desire for the predatory behaviours that make those jobs easier. Herding dogs usually like to look for animals, stare and slowly stalk them. Most gundogs love to pick up and carry animals. Spaniels and scent hounds are constantly sniffing. And terriers and sight hounds will chase, catch and kill. Terriers also often try to run down rabbit warrens and badger setts to catch the animals inside.

Teaching recall to high prey drive dogs

Let’s be honest, it’s going to be harder to train a dog with a strong prey drive to come back when you call them. Those predatory behaviours are innate and practising them is immensely rewarding. And holding a boring treat in front of your dog’s mouth is unlikely to beat chasing a squirrel, rabbit or pheasant. But that doesn’t mean you should give up on your high prey drive dog ever going off-lead. Most dogs can be taught a reliable recall (yes, even dogs with a high prey drive). You’ll have to carefully judge where you can let your dog off-lead, but that’s the same with every single dog.

The key to teaching your dog to come back is to work with your dog’s prey drive, not against it. You’re not going to be able to change your dog’s desire to chase, catch or kill animals. But you can give your dog safe outlets for those desires that keep wildlife and livestock safe and that you can use as a reward for your dog’s recall. Choose games that safely replicate the predatory behaviours your dog enjoys most. If your dog is obsessed with sniffing, try scattering treats for them to find or hide toys and let them track the scent. If your dog loves to chase anything that moves, you can throw treats for them to run after or drag a toy on the ground for them to chase. Tug is a brilliant game for dogs who want to catch prey, especially if they love to shake and kill. If you can stomach it, buy a toy made with real fur. Most dogs love them and they make play way more exciting than if you had a fleece or rope toy.

If you’re unsure, keep your dog on-lead

It’s essential to take precautions that keep your dog and other animals safe. Unfortunately dogs do get hit by cars chasing wildlife and farmers can shoot your dog if they’re scaring or injuring livestock. You need to judge the risk before you let your dog off-lead. Consider the chance your dog will encounter an animal they would want to chase or kill, whether they’re likely to listen to your recall and what could happen if they ignore you. It’s totally normal for dogs to be able to run off-lead in some areas and to need to stay on-lead in other places. There’s no shame in keeping your dog on-lead - it’s not a failure, it’s being responsible.

But just because your dog can’t be fully off-lead doesn’t mean they have to be stuck close to you on a 2 metre lead. Longer leads (called long lines) are a great way to give your dog more freedom to sniff and run without the risk of them running off. So they’re a great option in places where you’re not sure if you’ll encounter wildlife or livestock or if you’re walking near a road. Using a long line also gives you a chance to play those fun games and practise your dog’s recall over a longer distance. Giving you both a better chance at successful recalls when your dog’s ready to run off-lead.

Need more support with your dog’s recall?

You can get personalised support to teach your dog to come back when you call them with the Your Enthusiastic Explorer 1-2-1 recall training programme.

Written by Juniper Indigo, dog trainer in Tiverton and Exeter